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Surf Science: An Introduction to Waves for Surfing

Tony Butt, Paula Russell, Rick Grigg




[PDF.bd14] Surf Science: An Introduction to Waves for Surfing

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 | #365295 in Books |  2014-03-31 |  2014-03-31 | Original language:English | PDF # 1 |  9.50 x.50 x7.50l,1.09 | File type: PDF | 136 pages

||0 of 0 people found the following review helpful.| Five Stars|By JK|Excellent short book on the forces that make coastal oceans dynamic.|0 of 1 people found the following review helpful.| The book reads like a textbook and doesn't seem to translate to a ...|By TRAVIS BRITT|The book reads like a textbook and doesn't seem to translate to a functional knowledge. If you want to ner|About the Author||Author: Butt, Tony;|Tony Butt has a Ph.D., in physical oceanography and worked with the Coastal Processes Research Group at Plymouth University. He is a big-wave surfer and lives in Spain.

Have you ever wondered where waves come from? What makes every one different, why some peel nicely and others just close out? Why, some days, waves come in sets of six and others in sets of three, and what factors affect the behavior of a surfing break? If you have, this book is for you.

Now in its third edition, Surf Science is the first book to talk in depth about the science of waves from a surfer’s point of view. It fills the gap between surfing...

You easily download any file type for your device.Surf Science: An Introduction to Waves for Surfing   |  Tony Butt, Paula Russell, Rick Grigg. Just read it with an open mind because none of us really know.

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